The old town of Takayama dates from the late sixteenth century, when Kanamori Nagachika (1524–1608) began his rule of the historical province of Hida and built Takayama Castle. He designed the town with wide north-south streets for merchants to come and go with their wares and narrower east-west alleys, used by shopkeepers, blacksmiths, and the servants of samurai for running errands. Follow in their footsteps to explore beyond the main sightseeing streets. Discover little-known viewpoints, centuries-old businesses, and seasonal sights, such as the namesake ginkgo trees of Ginkgo Alley. Set aside around 2 hours for a leisurely walk, allowing time to stop and take in the sights along the way.

Rivers were a natural defense for the castle and the old town of Takayama. Start your walk along the Miyagawa River on the western side of the old town, where the merchants and craftspeople once lived. There are several bridges, each with a view of the river. If you set out in the morning, you can browse the Miyagawa morning market for locally grown produce and handicrafts.

Head east along the Enako River to the Higashiyama temple district. Kanamori Nagachika (1524–1608), the founder of Takayama, laid the foundations for the district by having several temples built and others moved from their original locations. Enjoy the Edo-period (1603–1867) architecture and the tranquility of the grounds as you tour the centuries-old temples. Allow 2 to 3 hours to complete the walk.

Takayama flourished under the Kanamori family, who ruled the Hida region between 1586 and 1692. They developed local industries such as gold mining and logging, and established trade routes, including the Etchu Highway. The highway connected Takayama and present-day Toyama on the coast of the Sea of Japan. In the Shimo-Ninomachi neighborhood, you can walk a section of the route. Here, traditional townhouses line the road and family-run shops sell everything from confections and rice crackers to agricultural tools.

As you approach the castle, you’ll pass through the eastern part of the old town, where samurai once lived. These warriors lived near the castle for quick deployment in case of attack. The journey ends at Shiroyama Park, the site of Takayama Castle. Although the castle was dismantled at the end of the seventeenth century, when the Tokugawa shogunate took direct control of the Hida region, sections of moats and stone ramparts hint at the scale of the castle.

Kanamori Nagachika was a renowned samurai general who served under all three of Japan’s “great unifiers”: Oda Nobunaga (1534–1582), Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536–1598), and Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–1616). During his service to Hideyoshi, Nagachika was charged with subjugating the province of Hida (including present-day Takayama). In 1585, he captured Matsukura Castle, then held by Mitsuki Yoritsuna (1540–1587). By leveraging local intelligence, Nagachika secured a decisive victory with minimal bloodshed. For his success, he was awarded the governorship of the region.

There are no buildings on the grounds of the former castle, but defensive works, such as ditches, the square bases of turrets, and stone-piled ramparts remain, offering a sense of the scale and layout of the castle. From the uppermost grounds, you can see much of Takayama, including the old town. On a clear day, the Northern Japan Alps are visible in the background.

One of the first stops on the walk is Kokubunji, a beautiful temple founded in 746. The grounds contain an elegant three-story wooden pagoda, masterfully crafted by local carpenters. The Hida region, which includes Takayama, has a rich woodworking heritage that dates from the eighth century. Look out for carpenters’ studios around the town, where you might catch a glimpse of their craftsmanship in action.

Cross Gyojin Bridge into the old town, where the Miyagawa morning market is held daily along the riverside. Browse regional crafts, farm-fresh fruits and vegetables, and other local specialties. From the market, head to the northern edge of the old town to walk a section of the Etchu Highway. This ancient trade route connected Takayama with present-day Toyama on the coast of the Sea of Japan, facilitating the trade of lacquer and wood from Takayama for commodities such as rice, fish, and salt. Enjoy the traditional architecture of the townhouses as you follow a section of the old highway.